There are several violently opposed views about how to make scrambled eggs, and I seem to hold all of them. It depends on mood, I guess, but I'm never sure when I set to work whether that morning I'll be in the dry-fry school, the moist-stir school, or even the lumps of cream cheese in the mi).xing bowl school. Today, it turned out, I was in the "cook them over low heat until you want to scream" mode. Three eggs, a tablespoon of water, some salt, black pepper, and a dash of Tabasco Habanero Hot Sauce...stir it up with a fork...slip it into a pan where the ham bits have been gently heating in some melted butter...cook, over low heat, stirring and waiting, stirring and waiting, stirring and waiting...the eyes glaze over. Then, suddenly, there they are, very moist and custardy, here seen cleverly disguising two slices of slightly overdone toast.

PS For those of you keeping track, the little ham bits in this batch of scrambles were made from the very last scrap of Country Ham the First. Country Ham the Second is snoozing out the summer in the freezer.

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